Things to Do in Hvar in December
December weather, activities, events & insider tips
December Weather in Hvar
Is December Right for You?
Advantages
- Genuine off-season pricing - accommodation costs drop 40-60% compared to summer peak, and you'll actually have bargaining power with apartment rentals if you're staying a week or longer. The locals are noticeably more relaxed and willing to chat without the summer rush pressure.
- The island belongs to locals in December - you'll experience authentic Hvar without the cruise ship crowds. Restaurants in Hvar Town that are mobbed in July will seat you immediately, and you can photograph Diocletian's Palace squares without 200 people in your frame.
- Surprisingly strong sunshine when it appears - that UV index of 8 is legitimate. Between weather systems, you'll get crisp, clear days perfect for hiking the island's interior trails, and the light is spectacular for photography. The air visibility is excellent without summer haze.
- Winter swimming culture is real here - locals do their daily swims year-round, and the Adriatic holds warmth longer than you'd expect at 14-16°C (57-61°F). If you're into cold water swimming or want to try it, December is when you'll meet the genuine swimming community, not tourists.
Considerations
- Most tourist infrastructure genuinely shuts down - about 70% of restaurants, tour operators, and shops close from November through March. This isn't an exaggeration for effect. You'll find maybe 8-10 restaurants open in Hvar Town versus 60+ in summer. Ferry schedules drop to minimal service, with some routes cutting frequency by 75%.
- Weather is legitimately unpredictable - that 'variable' conditions descriptor means you might get three gorgeous days followed by two of wind and rain. The bura wind can hit hard, making the 7°C (44°F) feel significantly colder and canceling ferries without much notice. You need genuine flexibility in your plans.
- It's actually cold for Mediterranean standards - locals will tell you December is their winter, and they mean it. That 13°C (56°F) high with 70% humidity and wind off the Adriatic feels colder than the same temperature inland. You're not getting beach weather here, despite what the latitude might suggest.
Best Activities in December
Interior hiking trails around Hvar Town
December is genuinely ideal for the island's hill trails - summer heat makes these routes brutal, but in December you get 10-15°C (50-59°F) temperatures perfect for the climb up to Fortica fortress or the ridge trails behind town. The 30-minute climb to Fortica gains about 100m (328 ft) elevation and you'll actually enjoy it without sweating through your shirt. Trails are empty, the macchia scrubland smells incredible after rain, and visibility across to the Pakleni Islands is crystal clear. Start around 10am when temperatures peak and you'll have 4-5 hours of good daylight.
Wine cellar tours in Jelsa and Vrboska
December is actually harvest aftermath season - the grapes came in September/October, and by December the winemakers have time to talk. The island's family wineries, particularly around Jelsa on the north coast and in Stari Grad Plain, offer tastings in their cellars where you'll taste this year's young wine alongside aged bottles. It's properly cozy - stone cellars, wood stoves sometimes, and winemakers who'll spend an hour explaining Plavac Mali grape characteristics because they're not rushed. Tours typically run 90 minutes and include 4-6 wine tastings plus olive oil.
Cooking classes focused on winter Dalmatian dishes
December means gregada fish stew, pašticada beef stew, and winter vegetable dishes - the food shifts completely from summer grilling to slow-cooked comfort food. A handful of local cooks offer classes in their homes or small venues, teaching you to make traditional winter dishes using what's actually in season. You'll work with winter greens, preserved fish, dried figs, and learn techniques locals actually use. Classes run 3-4 hours including shopping at the morning market if it's running, cooking, and eating what you've made.
Day trips to Split and Diocletian's Palace
The ferry connection to Split runs year-round, and December is genuinely the best time to experience Diocletian's Palace without the cruise ship hordes. You can actually walk through the basement halls, see the Peristyle square, and visit the Cathedral of St. Domnius without queuing or being rushed along. The palace is a living neighborhood, and in winter you see how locals actually use the space - kids playing football in the squares, laundry hanging between Roman columns, old men playing cards in basement taverns. Ferry takes 50 minutes to 1 hour depending on route.
Pakleni Islands boat trips on calm days
Weather-dependent entirely, but when you get those clear December days between systems, the Pakleni Islands are genuinely magical without summer crowds. Water taxi operators who work year-round will take you to Palmižana or Vlaka coves - you won't swim unless you're committed to cold water, but the islands are perfect for walking the coastal paths and having a beach entirely to yourself. The restaurants that stay open serve winter menus focused on seafood stews and grilled fish. You need flexibility to grab good weather windows.
Photography walks through abandoned villages
December light is spectacular for photography, and Hvar has several abandoned stone villages in the interior - Malo Grablje and Velo Grablje being the most accessible. These villages were abandoned in the 1960s when people moved to the coast, and now they're atmospheric ruins with stone houses, old wells, and olive groves gone wild. The winter light, especially late afternoon, creates dramatic shadows through the ruins. It's about a 45-minute walk uphill from Hvar Town to Malo Grablje, gaining roughly 200m (656 ft) elevation.
December Events & Festivals
Saint Nicholas Day preparations
December 6th is Sveti Nikola, and while it's not a massive public celebration, you'll notice local families doing small traditions - children leaving shoes out for small gifts, and some cafes offering special sweets. It's a quiet, family-focused day rather than a tourist event, but worth knowing about if you're around.
Christmas Eve midnight mass at Hvar Cathedral
December 24th brings genuine local tradition - the Franciscan monastery and main cathedral both hold midnight mass, and locals actually attend in significant numbers. The cathedral in Hvar Town, built in the 16th century, becomes atmospheric with candles and traditional Croatian Christmas hymns. You're welcome to attend respectfully, but this is a genuine religious service, not a performance. Dress warmly - stone churches in December are properly cold.
New Year's Eve in Hvar Town square
December 31st is the one night in winter when Hvar Town genuinely comes alive - locals gather in the main square for live music, fireworks at midnight over the harbor, and the handful of open restaurants run special menus. It's low-key compared to summer parties, maybe 200-300 people rather than thousands, but it has authentic local energy. The celebration runs from about 10pm until 2am, and it's one of the few times you'll see young locals out in force during winter.