Things to Do in Hvar in May
May weather, activities, events & insider tips
May Weather in Hvar
Is May Right for You?
Advantages
- Pre-summer pricing without the crowds - accommodation costs typically run 30-40% less than July-August rates, and you can still walk into waterfront restaurants without reservations most evenings
- Water temperature hits 19-20°C (66-68°F) by mid-May, which is actually comfortable for swimming without a wetsuit, and the Adriatic clarity is exceptional before the summer algae bloom
- Lavender fields across the island start blooming in late May, particularly around Brusje and Velo Grablje, creating that postcard-purple landscape without the tour bus crowds that arrive in June
- Local life is still visible - fishermen still sell directly at Mandrac harbor in the mornings, konobas serve locals not just tourists, and you'll hear more Croatian than English in Old Town side streets
Considerations
- Weather genuinely swings - you might get three consecutive days at 25°C (77°F) and sunshine, then two days at 16°C (61°F) with that penetrating Adriatic wind that makes it feel colder than the thermometer suggests
- About one-third of beach clubs and seasonal restaurants are still in soft-opening mode or closed entirely until late May, particularly the smaller cove operations that wait for guaranteed tourist numbers
- Ferry schedules are still on shoulder-season frequency, meaning fewer daily connections to Split and other islands, which limits your flexibility for day trips or last-minute itinerary changes
Best Activities in May
Pakleni Islands boat tours and swimming
May is actually ideal for exploring the Pakleni archipelago because the water temperature becomes genuinely swimmable by mid-month, but the coves at Palmižana and Mlini haven't filled with anchored yachts yet. The 70% humidity feels less oppressive on the water, and that UV index of 8 means you get proper tanning weather without the scorching intensity of July. Morning departures around 9-10am give you calmer seas before the afternoon maestral wind picks up around 2pm.
Cycling the interior villages and lavender routes
The 14-22°C (58-72°F) temperature range is perfect for cycling Hvar's hilly interior without overheating - try this in August and you'll understand why May matters. Routes from Stari Grad through Velo Grablje to Brusje give you 15-20 km (9-12 miles) of manageable climbs through stone villages and emerging lavender fields. Late May specifically catches the start of lavender bloom, and those 10 rainy days mean the landscape is still green rather than the brown you'll see by July.
Wine tasting tours in Stari Grad Plain
May timing catches winemakers between spring pruning and summer tourist chaos, meaning you're more likely to actually meet the producer rather than seasonal staff. The UNESCO-protected Stari Grad Plain vineyards are working landscapes in May - you'll see the vines leafing out and locals in the fields. Plavac Mali tastings at family operations around Jelsa and Vrboska typically include 4-5 wines plus local cheese and pršut for 150-200 kuna. The variable weather actually doesn't matter much since you're mostly indoors or under covered terraces.
Coastal hiking from Hvar Town to Milna
The 8 km (5 mile) coastal path to Milna is genuinely pleasant in May temperatures, while July heat makes it borderline masochistic. Start by 9am to avoid the midday sun - that UV index of 8 requires serious sun protection. The trail offers swimming coves every 20-30 minutes, and the water temperature by mid-May is warm enough for quick dips. Those 10 rainy days typically mean afternoon showers, so morning departures give you better odds. The path is exposed with minimal shade, but 22°C (72°F) highs are manageable with proper hydration.
Vis and Blue Cave day trips
May offers the best Blue Cave experience before summer crowds turn it into a conveyor belt operation. The cave's blue light effect actually intensifies in May's morning sun angle, and you might wait 10 minutes rather than the 45-minute queues of August. Sea conditions matter more than weather - the crossing from Hvar to Vis takes 90 minutes and can be choppy, but captains know the patterns. That 70% humidity feels less oppressive on full-day boat trips. Tours typically include Vis Town, military tunnels, and Stiniva Cove swimming.
Fortica fortress sunset sessions
The 20-minute uphill walk to Fortica fortress is actually pleasant in May evenings when temperatures drop to 16-18°C (61-64°F), versus the sweaty slog it becomes in summer. May sunsets happen around 8pm, giving you time for dinner afterward rather than the 9pm summer sunsets that mess with restaurant timing. The fortress bar opens by mid-May, serving overpriced but cold beer while you watch the sun drop behind Pakleni Islands. That variable weather means some evenings get dramatic cloud formations that actually improve sunset photos.
May Events & Festivals
Stari Grad Festival opening weekend
The cultural summer season traditionally kicks off in late May with concerts in Tvrdalj Castle courtyard and Dominican monastery. These are smaller, more local affairs than the July-August program - you'll hear klapa singing groups and see Croatian folk performances rather than imported acts. It's worth checking current schedules, but expect 2-3 events over the final May weekend, typically free or 50-100 kuna entry.